I follow the booklet guidelines pretty closely to put in the zipper and attach the sides. You don’t really have to “insert” a zipper, you simply lay the zipper along the raw edge and stitch. The zipper is too long for the bag, so the bulky zipper pull and the metal end are at least an inch from where you are sewing. After you stitch the first seam, fold the zipper back, press and top stitch the seam allowance to hold it in place. I like to use a large multi-stitch zigzag to do that. No special reason, I just think it looks nice.

I quilt the end panels as directed and then I use flannel between 2 layers of fabric for the outside pocket. Another layer of batting is too bulky and just a layer of fabric doesn’t have enough body. I think the flannel is just right.

Oddly enough, this is where I realized I did something wrong. Remember when I told you I rounded the corners because I like it better that way? Rounding the corners reduces the circumference of the end piece. The pattern requires a 25 inch length for the body. I increased my length to 26 inches instead of reducing it to 24 inches! Oops. I’m going to have “puffy” corners. That’s ok; I can live with puffy corners. As you can see, I had quite a bit of easing to do!

I added my favorite zipper pull and I’m done! Project #1 for this week is complete. For the next few days I think I will work on the Japanese Jigsaw quilt.

Day 1, part 2

I'm back!

After the quilting was complete I trimmed the body of the purse to measure 12 inches by 26 inches. I also marked a line 2½ inches in from each long side (that line stops 3½ inches from each short end) to position the handles. This is where CTO and I part ways on instructions. I prefer that my handles be 100% cotton webbing covered in fabric. Many purse patterns instruct you to use batting inside the handles. I think that batting stretches too much and if you really load your purse (mine usually has my computer battery, mouse, power cord and 100 other things) when the handles stretch, the stitches pop. One inch cotton webbing not only holds up better, I think it feels better in your hand.

I cut 2 widths of fabric 3 inches wide and stitch them together end-to-end on a 45 degree angle to make the handles. This is the absolute minimum length for this handle. It sits nicely on my shoulder and my purse tucks under my arm. If you have a bulky coat you might want to add another half width of fabric to make them longer.

To stitch the length of the handle fabric I make a guide using a Sewing Edge Tool. That’s the purple strip on the right side of my needle. It is a repositionable guide that allows me to stitch a tube that is slightly wider than the webbing. The 3 inch strip makes a hefty seam, but it also makes it easier to stitch. I press that seam open before using the Fasturn tool to turn the tube right side out and insert the webbing. Then, using my walking foot, I stitch down both sides of the handle.

This photo shows how I match the center of the handle to the center of the bag and align the handles with the positioning lines. The open ends meet one another on the opposite side. The joint is on the very bottom of the bag, so I don’t worry about sewing it together. I just fold the fabric under and butt the ends together. To attach the handles you have to stitch through all of the layers directly over the same stitching lines. This isn’t as hard as it seems, but it does help to have a sharp needle!

If you are interested in any of the items I’ve talked about, including the needles, Sewing Edge or the CTO Totes with Zippers book, they are available on our website. Check back a little later, I'm finishing this project before 5:00 today!

http://thequiltcompany.com/