After the quilting was complete I trimmed the body of the purse to measure 12 inches by 26 inches. I also marked a line 2½ inches in from each long side (that line stops 3½ inches from each short end) to position the handles. This is where CTO and I part ways on instructions. I prefer that my handles be 100% cotton webbing covered in fabric. Many purse patterns instruct you to use batting inside the handles. I think that batting stretches too much and if you really load your purse (mine usually has my computer battery, mouse, power cord and 100 other things) when the handles stretch, the stitches pop. One inch cotton webbing not only holds up better, I think it feels better in your hand.
I cut 2 widths of fabric 3 inches wide and stitch them together end-to-end on a 45 degree angle to make the handles. This is the absolute minimum length for this handle. It sits nicely on my shoulder and my purse tucks under my arm. If you have a bulky coat you might want to add another half width of fabric to make them longer.
I cut 2 widths of fabric 3 inches wide and stitch them together end-to-end on a 45 degree angle to make the handles. This is the absolute minimum length for this handle. It sits nicely on my shoulder and my purse tucks under my arm. If you have a bulky coat you might want to add another half width of fabric to make them longer.
To stitch the length of the handle fabric I make a guide using a Sewing Edge Tool. That’s the purple strip on the right side of my needle. It is a repositionable guide that allows me to stitch a tube that is slightly wider than the webbing. The 3 inch strip makes a hefty seam, but it also makes it easier to stitch. I press that seam open before using the Fasturn tool to turn the tube right side out and insert the webbing. Then, using my walking foot, I stitch down both sides of the handle. 
This photo shows how I match the center of the handle to the center of the bag and align the handles with the positioning lines. The open ends meet one another on the opposite side. The joint is on the very bottom of the bag, so I don’t worry about sewing it together. I just fold the fabric under and butt the ends together. To attach the handles you have to stitch through all of the layers directly over the same stitching lines. This isn’t as hard as it seems, but it does help to have a sharp needle!If you are interested in any of the items I’ve talked about, including the needles, Sewing Edge or the CTO Totes with Zippers book, they are available on our website. Check back a little later, I'm finishing this project before 5:00 today!
3 comments:
Karen,
Congratulations! You got further than I did today. I did get my purse cut out and then I quit and started working on my quilt top. I am using pre-quitlted fabric and decided I wanted to add a border trim to the top from the fabric. After cutting it, I then didn't know which side I wanted to use since both were so pretty.
Regarding the pockets, do you alter that part of the pattern at all. I'm not sure how to finish mine off since it is already pre-quilted. Any suggestions?
I like your idea of the straps since that too was an undecided part of mine since the quiltd fabric is too thick. Think I'll unquilt it and use the fabric on webbing.
Back to my quilt top while I think of what my next step will be on the purse.
If I use pre-quilted fabric for the pockets I cut one layer and put a binding on the top edge.
Rather than un-quilting your fabric for your handles, why don't you select a coordinating piece of regular fabric. A quarter yard would be more than enough for the handles and the pocket binding.
Karen
If I use pre-quilted fabric for the pockets I cut one layer and put a binding on the top edge.
Rather than un-quilting your fabric for your handles, why don't you select a coordinating piece of regular fabric. A quarter yard would be more than enough for the handles and the pocket binding.
Karen
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